Tubular Lock
You've seen these on vending machines, bike locks, arcade coin doors, and older cabinets — a cylindrical keyway with a notched circular key.
1. Anatomy
Seen face-on: seven pin stacks sit in a ring around a central post. Every spring pushes its stack inward with roughly equal force — the code is the depth each pin must reach (bottom-pin length and key-notch depth), not the springs. Labels shown.
How it works
Pins are arranged in a ring around a central post rather than in a line. Every spring pushes its stack the same way with roughly equal force — the code isn't in the springs; it's in how deep each pin must sit (bottom-pin length and key-notch depth). Inserted along the axis, the notched cylindrical key presses each pin inward to the depth that brings its split to the shear line — all at once.
Tools you need
A dedicated tubular lock pick, matched to the pin count (usually 7 or 8), with self-setting feelers. A decoder that reads the retained feeler positions is optional but useful.
Step-by-step technique
- Insert the tubular pick matched to your lock.
- Apply gentle rotational tension by twisting the tool.
- Rock the pick back and forth — each spring-loaded feeler finds and holds its pin's shear point.
- After several seconds the pins align and the plug turns — typically 5 to 60 seconds.
- Read the bitting off the retained feeler positions to decode or duplicate the key.
Common mistakes
- Using the wrong pin-count tool (a 7-pin tool will not work on an 8-pin lock).
- Too much force — the feelers need room to find each shear point.
Skill level & notes
The dedicated tool is essential. Standard hooks and rakes can't reach the ring of pins.